Founders ask for “a price”. What they need first is a cash sequence. Unit FOB is quoted on a locked construction — it is not a public poster number. The sequence below is what we put on the founder desk so drop one does not stall at the wrong wire.
US$50–100 / garment piece. A bra + legging is two fees.
30% when the PPS is signed — not when the moodboard is approved.
Build the P&L on 150 / colour unless a library trial from 100 is confirmed in writing.
~25–30 bulk days after PPS for yoga/tennis paths.
Cash stages on a first library colourway
| Stage | Typical published term | When it hits | Founder note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sample fee | US$50–100 / garment piece | Before fit lock | Construction & fabric drive the band. Eligible library fees may credit on confirmed bulk. |
| Courier / dips | Billed separately | With samples / colour rounds | Treat as sunk on drop one. Courier never credits. |
| Library trial | From 100 pcs | Selected library only | Not sitewide. Needs qualifying block + fabric. |
| Below 100 | +15% | Written confirmation | Feasibility + surcharge — not a published starting price. |
| Standard MOQ | 150 / style / colour | First bulk colourway | Default P&L assumption. |
| Custom fabric MCQ | typically 500–1300 m+ / colour | Before exclusive cut | Do not open five exclusive fabrics on drop one. |
| Deposit | 30% after signed PPS | PPS approved | Never against an open sketch. |
| Balance | 70% after final inspection | QC protocol on the PO clears | Fail lots are reworked under the written terms — not argued in chat. |
| Bulk clock | ~25–30 days · swim 30–40 | After PPS + deposit | Announce launch dates from this clock. |
Same table lives on For founders — First Order Economics and the deal sheet.
Colour math that breaks founder budgets
Write styles × colours before you fall in love with a palette:
- 2 styles × 3 colours = 6 gates at 150 → plan inventory as 900 pcs if every gate runs full.
- A “small” add of one accent colour is another 150 on every style that carries it.
- A set (bra + legging) is two styles. Matching colours still count per style.
If cash is tight, cut colours before you cut construction quality. Pale colours that need opacity approval should be on the sample list — not discovered in customer photos.
A 90-day path that is boring on purpose
- Week 0–1 — NDA if needed · one-page brief · library shortlist on one named hand.
- Week 1–2 — paid samples (7–9 working days once locked).
- Week 2–4 — fit and colour notes · second sample only if the change list is written.
- Week 4+ — PPS → 30% deposit → bulk clock (~25–30 days).
- Ship / launch — balance after final inspection · reorder fabric language already filed.
Founders who parallelise five exclusive fabrics in week 0 are usually still waiting on mill dips when the ad account is ready.
What you should never wire against
- An unsigned sketch or “we will finalise later” tech pack.
- A verbal MOQ that is not on the PO.
- A phone photo as the only colour standard.
- A ship date that predates PPS + bulk days.
- A recycled or performance claim without scope for that PO.
A worked example without fake unit costs
Suppose: library legging + bra, two colours (black + oat), sizes XS–XL, PowerForm™, US market DTC.
- Samples: four pieces if you sample both styles in two colours — budget four sample fees in the US$50–100 band, plus courier.
- Bulk gates: 2 × 2 = four gates. P&L on 150 each unless a written trial from 100 applies to those library styles.
- Opacity: oat is the approval colour on finished garments — not black alone.
- Cash spikes: sample outbound → PPS deposit → balance before or at shipment per the PO.
We will quote unit economics on that locked brief. We will not publish a pretend FOB here. Related: sample cost explained · founder first-order desk · brief factories can quote.